MARMARA REGION

The Goksu Palace sometimes known as Kucuksu Palace graces the Asian shore next to the Anadolu Hisari. The second link between the two continents, the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge straddles the waterway just past these two fortresses.

From Duatepe Hill, on the European side, you can admire the magnificent panorama of the bridge and the Bosphorus. Below Duatepe, the beautiful Emirgan Park bursts with color when its tulips bloom in the spring. On the Asian shore is Kanlica, a fishing village, now a favored suburb for wealthy Istanbulites. Crowds gather in the restaurants and cafes along its shores to sample its famous yogurt. Shortly after Kanlica and Cubuklu is the Beykoz Korusu (Ibrahim Pap Woods), a popular retreat. In the cafes and restaurants there, you can enjoy the delightful scenery and clear, fresh air. Back on the European side, at Tarabya Bay, yachts seem to dance at their moorings. The coastal road bustles with taverns and fish restaurants from Tarabya to the charming suburbs of Sariyer and Buyukdere. Sariyer has one of the largest fish markets in Istanbul and is also famous for its delicious varieties of milk puddings and borek (pastries). On past Sariyer the narrow strait widens and opens into the Black Sea.

Golden Horn (Halic), Istanbul 

HALIC (THE GOLDEN HORN)

THE MARMARA REGION

In ancient times Yalova was known as Helenapolis in memory of Emperor Constantine's mother Helena who designed the city. Today, Yalova is an important port city, famous for its thermal baths. Termal, in the southwestern part of the city is the center of the thermal district and the best place in Turkey to enjoy the curative thermal bath waters. In Termal, there's a wonderful panoramic view of the entire Thermal district center from the top of a hill overlooking the city. The Ataturk Mansion, located in Yalova, is now a museum (open to the public weekdays except Monday and Thursday). Built in 1929, Ataturk's former summer residence displays original furnishings from the early 20th century. For more natural beauty take in Karaca Arboretum, open Sunday afternoons until 6 p.m.

Yalova

Seventeen km west of Yalova, the relaxing resort area of Cinarcik has lovely beaches and modern accomodations.

Formerly known as Nicaea, Iznik lies at the eastern tip of Lake Iznik, to the south of lzmit. The city was founded in 316 BC by Antigonas, one of the generals of Alexander the Great, and then taken by another general, Lysimachus, who named the city "Nicaea" for his wife. Later the city fell to the Bithynian Kingdom and was bequeathed to Rome in 128 BC. After playing its role as an important Roman, and then later Byzantine city, it fell to the Seljuks in 1078 and passed on to the Ottomans in 1331. The Roman theater was built by Trajan (249-251). On the shore of Lake Iznik stands the Roman Senate, where the first Council of Nicea took place in 325. In the center of the town is the Church of St. Sophia, used by other councils. One of the more important councils was in 745 over iconoclasm, the role of icons in worship. The "Baptisteriurn" has a cupola over the baptistry. The Ottomans converted this church into the Orhan Mosque. Another church is the 6th-century "Komesis" Church built for the ascension of the virgin. Iznik stands along with Jerusalem, Ephesus and the Vatican in importance in the Christian world. It is still a small town which does not seem to have exceeded its original 4227 m of Roman walls with their 114 towers.

The four gates which allowed access to the city still stand. In the 16th and 17th centuries, Iznik was the center of exquisite ceramic ware production which made an important decorative contribution to mosques and palaces throughout Turkey. A museum displays the finds of nearby excavations. Among the important Islamic buildings, be sure to visit the turquoise tiled Yesil Mosque and the Nilufer Hatun Imarethanesi. After exploring the sights, the lakeside fish restaurants provide delicious food and a relaxing atmosphere. Five km from Iznik, in the village of Elbeyli there are a 5th century catacomb and an obelisk 15.5 m high built by Cassius Philiscus.

Yenisehir, 40 km. northeast of Bursa, is filled with many interesting and lovely old Turkish houses. The 18th century Semaki Mansion, now restored as a museum, is open to visitors.

Turkish Bath

The city of Bursa, southeast of the Sea of Marmara, lies on the lower slopes of Uludag (Mt. Olympos of Mysia, 2,443 m). The city derives its name from its founder, King Prusias of Bithynia. Its previous antique name was Prussa ad Hypium. It subsequently came under Roman, then Byzantine rule before falling to Orhan Gazi in 1326, when it become the first capital of the Ottoman Empire. Many important Ottoman buildings remain.

Known as "Green Bursa," the city is filled with gardens and parks and overlooks a verdant plain. It is at the center of an important fruit growing region. Bursa was, and is still, famous for its peaches, silk trade, towel manufacture and thermal springs. Make a point to try the local dish Iskender Kebab, a dish of bread, tomato sauce, strips of grilled meat, melted butter and yogurt. Candied chestnuts are another regional speciality.

A tour of the city begins in the eastern section at the Yesil Turbe (Green Mausoleum). Set in a garden and distinguished by its exterior paneling of tiles, the mausoleum holds the tiled cenotaph of Sultan Mehmet 1. Across the street, the Yesil Mosque of 1424 reflects the new Ottoman, as opposed to Seljuk, aesthetic. A medrese nearby completes the complex and is also home to the Ethnography Museum. Before exploring this area, stop for a glass of tea in one of the traditional tea houses. Going uphill, to the east, you pass by the Emir Sultan Mosque in its delightful setting, and after walking through a district of old houses, you reach the Yildirim Beyazit Mosque (1391).

Now make your way to Cumhuriyet Square (known locally as Heykel) and stroll along Ataturk Avenue to Kom Park where outdoor cafes are set among flowers and fountains. At the back of the park, a long building, the Kom Han (1490), houses the silk cocoon trade. From here you proceed to the covered bazaar area, with its narrow streets, caravanserais and bedesten.

On the other side of Kom Park stands one of Bursa's oldest religious buildings, the Orhan Gazi Mosque, built in 1413. Nearby is the large Ulu Mosque, constructed in the Seljuk style. A finely carved walnut mimber (speaker's platform) and impressive calligraphic panels decorate the mosque. The sadirvan (ablutionary fountain) lies uncharacteristicly within the mosque itself under the ceiling of twenty domes.

Walking west from the Ulu Mosque you arrive at Hisar, an old and picturesque quarter of Bursa. In the park that overlooks the valley are the mausoleums of Osman, the founder of the Ottoman Empire, and his son Orhan Gazi, who commanded the army that conquered Bursa. The cafes of Tophane offer a good place to stop for refreshments. In nearby Ressamlar Sokak (Painters' Street), local artists work in the open air.

Bursa

At the Yildiz Park Tea Gardens in the Muradiye quarter, you get a superb view of the Muradiye Complex. The compound, in a tranquil park-like setting, contains the Mosque of Sultan Murat 11 (1426) built in the style of the Yesil Mosque and the tombs of Murat 11, Sehzade Cem and Sehzade Mustafa. These contain some of the loveliest decoration and tile work. The nearby Ottoman House Museum is in a restored 17th century dwelling that provides an interesting glimpse into the lives of wealthy Ottomans.

Other places of interest in Bursa include the Culture Park with the Bursa Archeological Museum, and the Ataturk Museum on the road to Cekirge, The western suburb of Cekirge has been known since Roman times for its warm springs rich in minerals. Many modem hotels have thermal bath facilities or, you can also visit the old hamams. Yeni Kaplica (New Spring) was built in 1552 by RustemPasa, Pasa, the Grand Vizier of Suleyman the Magnificent. The Eski Kaplica (Old Spring), built on the site of the original Byzantine baths, is the oldest bath. The Karamustafa Pasa baths are reputed to have the best hot mineral waters in the area. Buildings of interest in Cekirge, include the Mosque and Mausoleum of Murat I and the tomb of Suleyman Celebi, a religious poet. The monument to Karagoz commemorates the character whose humorous antics are immortalized in Turkish shadow puppet theater.

Thirty-six km from Bursa is Uludag, the largest center for winter sports in Turkey, a variety of activities, accommodation and entertainment. The slopes are easily reached by car or cable car (teleferik). December to May is the best time for skiing, although the neighboring Uludag National Park, is well worth a visit at any time of the year for the lovely views and wonderful fresh air.

Bursa

A seaside resort town 25 km from Bursa, Mudanya's fine fish restaurants and nightclubs are popular with the residents of Bursa. The Armistice Museum is also worth a visit. just 12 km from Mudanya, Zeytinbagi (Tirilye) exemplifies the architecture and layout of a typical Turkish town.

The Gulf of Gemlik, 29 km from Bursa has wide sandy beaches, of which Armutlu and Kumla are the favorites.

Olive Oil

The province of Balikesir borders both the Marmara and Aegean regions. In the capital of Balikesir, interesting historical sites harmoniously blend with nature. The mid-14th century Yildirim Mosque, built by Beyazit 1, is the city's oldest mosque. The Zagnos Pasa Mosque, built in 1461 by and named for the Grand Vizier of Mehmet the Conqueror, was once part of a great complex. Today only the mosque and bath remain. The Saat Kulesi (Clock Tower) built in 1827 by Mehmet Pasa is a smaller version of the Genoese Galata Tower. The Karesi Bey Mausoleum of 1336 contains the cenotaphs of Karesi Bey and his five sons. Also take in the artifacts from the area displayed in the newly completed Balikesir Museum (Kuva-i Milliye).

The beautiful Degirmen Bogazi, an area ten km from Balikesir towards Bursa, lies between two hills. On weekends and holidays families flock to this scenic spot and its restaurants at Karakol village photographers can capture three picturesque windmills. Ancient Penderamus now called Bandirma, is today an important commercial and industrial harbor second only to Istanbul in the Sea of Marmara. You can spend a pleasant afternoon in the town's restaurants and cafes. Belkis (Kyzikos) lies ten km west of Bandirma. In this ancient city on the isthmus of the Kapidag Peninsula, the Temple of Hadrian, a theater and aqueducts still captivate visitors. The Kuscenneti National Park near Lake Manyas is an ornithological site where 239 different species of birds flourish. Every year, over three million birds fly through this preserve. April and May are the best months to enjoy the wildlife. Thirteen km southeast of Bandirma in Karacabey, horse farms breed magnificent specimens of this beloved animal.

Manyas Kus Cenneti, National Park, Balikesir

Once known as ancient Erteka, Erdek is just 14 km northwest of Bandirma. One of the oldest and most famous resort areas on the Sea of Marmara, it offers pristine beaches and every type of accommodation.

Marmara Island, formerly known as Prokonessos, rose to prominence in the Roman period and retained its importance in the Byzantine and Ottoman periods thanks to the marble quarries, which supplied the stone for extravagant imperial building programs.

Manyas Kus Cenneti, National Park, Balikesir

Near Saraylar village, Marble Beach derives its name from the natural marble that lies just off the water's edge. In town, an open-air museum displays artifacts which date back to the Roman and Byzantine eras. At the marble quarry you can witness every step of the quarrying process.

Turkeli (Avsa) is another resort island that boasts of spectacular beaches and clear water as well as famous vineyards and wine cellars. In the Manastir district stands the Byzantine Meryem Ana Monastery.

Cunta Island, Ayvalik Balikesir

Fifty-five km southwest of Bandirma is Gonen, Turkey's most important thermal resort. That the springs were used even in Roman times is testified to by a fifth-century mosaic from what was originally a Roman bath. The waters come from 500 m below the ground, emerge at approximately 82C. Another 30 km to the northwest, Denizkent is a nice vacation spot with lovely beaches.

Sindirgi lies at the base of the Alacam Mountains amid beautiful forests and meadows in a region known for the weaving of superb Turkish carpets. The rugs of Yagcibedir are among the most prized in the country, growing more lovely with age. Around the Gulf of Edremit, also in Balikesir province, are some of the most beautiful coastlines in the country where clear waters meet sandy beaches which are encircled by the silvery green olive groves. Ayvalik, Burhaniye, Oren, Edremit, Akcay and Altinoluk are all resort towns which attract vacationers interested in a relaxing holiday with beautiful scenery and a wealth of historic and archeological sites.

Canakkale Walls

The city of Canakkale lies at the narrow, 1,200 meter entrance to the Canakkale Strait (the Dardanelles) that connects the Sea of Marmara and the Aegean. Passenger and car ferries run daily between Canakkale on the Asian side and Eceabat and Kilitbahir on the European side. Yachts navigating the straits stop at the well-equipped Canakkale Marina to allow tourists more time in the area. Hotels, restaurants-and cafes along the promenade, offer a place to enjoy the traffic in the harbor, as well as a view of the Kilitbahir Fortress and the Canakkale Archeological Museum.

In 1451, Sultan Mehmet 11, later the conqueror of Istanbul, built one fortress on the European side of the Canakkale Strait at Kilitbahir and one on the opposite shore at Cimenlik to control the passage of ships through the strait. Today the Cimenlik fortress serves as a military museum dedicated to the World War I Battle of Canakkale.

Adatepe, Canakkale

Gelibolu Peninsula Historical National Park was established to honor the 500,000 soldiers who gave their lives on Gelibolu, also known as Gallipoli. In 1915, MustafaKemal, commander of the Turkish army, led a successful campaign to drive out allied powers from the area. The park includes memorials, monuments, cemeteries, amid the natural beauty of the Ariburnu Cliffs and Tuz Golu (Salt Lake). The beauty of the green hills, sandy beaches and blue waters provides an honorable resting place for the soldiers who bravely fought and died in this historic battle. You cannot help but sense the heart of the Turkish nation in the patriotic spirit of the place.

Assos (Behramkale)

The largest of the Turkish islands, Gokceada is ringed with pristine bays. Its hills, covered with pine and olive trees, are dotted with sacred springs and monasteries. Regularly scheduled ferries make the trip from Canakkale and Kabatepe. In August, islanders and tourists gather for colorful local fairs.

As you approach Bozcaada Island, the Venetian castle commands your attention. Then your eyes are drawn to the glistening white houses and the restaurants and cafes which line the promenade. Wine seems as plentiful as water on this island and the consequence of numerous vineyards and wine cellars. There are good sandy beaches at Ayazma, Poyraz and Igdelik.

Veterans Cemetry, Gelibolu (Gallipoli), Canakkale

TROY (TRUVA)
The Fact and Fiction Surrounding the 4000 Year Old Ancient City

Troy existed more than 4000 years as the center of ancient civilization. For many years, it was commonly believed that Troy was a myth, the product of fertile imaginations such as Homer’s, who made Hector, Helen, Achilles, Paris, Agamemnon and Priam so famous. That changed in 1822, when the city’s remains were discovered by Charles Mclaren. Still many wondered if the Trojan War really happened. Did Helen of Troy exist? Was there a real wooden horse?

Once known as Ilium or New Ilium, Troy (Truva) is located in Hisarlik at Canakkale, in the west of Turkey on the Dardanelles, the strait that divides Europe and Asia as it connects the Agean and Marmara Seas. Here at a place that changed the history of the world during World War I with the Gelibolu Campaign, the remains of Troy can be visited today.

The legend of Troy began with Greek and Latin literature. Homer first mentioned it in the Iliad and Odyssey. Later it became a most popular subject in Greek drama, the city’s tale told to generation after generation.

During the Bronze Age, Troy has a great power because of its strategic location between Europe and Asia. In the 3rd and 2nd millennium BC, it was a major cultural center. However, after the fabled Trojan War, Troy was apparently abandoned from 1100 to 700 BC, when Greek settlers began to occupy the region. Troy was resettled and renamed Ilion. Alexander the Great ruled over the area around the 4th century BC. After the Roman capture of Troy in 85 BC, the city was partially restored by General Sulla. However, once the Romans occupied Constantinople (Istanbul), Troy lost its importance.

Troy was destroyed many times and rebuilt. So far, archaeologists have found nine levels; perhaps others are still hidden. However, efforts to uncover more of Troy’s secrets were severely hampered by the destruction wreaked on the site by German archaeologist Heinrich Schlieman, who excavated the city from 1870 to 1890. His theft of treasure from Troy and his damage to its remains will always be remembered in Turkish archaeological history.

TROJAN WAR AND CITY OF TROY (TRUVA)

The tale of Troy is most famously told by Homer in the Iliad and Odyssey. It begins with Laemedon, the son of Ilus who founded the city and gave it one of its names, was the king of Troy. Laemedon tried to cheat the gods of their rewards, thereby offending Herakles (Hercules), who sailed to Troy, attacked and captured the city. Laemedon and his sons were killed except the youngest, Podarces, who was released and took a new name, Priam, as the young king of Troy. Under his rule, Troy was restored and he reigned successfully over three generations, while his progeny – 50 sons and 12 daughters – played major roles in the story that would become one of the greatest ever told. Priam’s eldest son was the great warrior Hector, while, another, Paris, became a pivotal element in Troy’s history.

Paris’s impact on Troy began when Eris, goddess of discord, threw down a golden apple “for the fairest” at the wedding of Peleus and Thetis. Zeus, king of the gods, could not decide who should be awarded the apple, his wife Hera, Athena (goddess of wisdom) or Aphrodite (goddess of love). The goddesses were led to the Trojan Mount Ida, where the handsome Paris lived, and he was given the task of declaring who was fairest. Vying for his favor, Hera offered Paris the lordship of all Asia; Athena offered him victory in war and wisdom beyond any other man; and Aphrodite offered him the most beautiful woman in the world, whom she declared was Helen of Sparta. Consequently the clever Paris saw a way to avoid choosing among the influential women. He maintained that if the apple was to go “the fairest”, then it should go the Helen.

Helen was married to Meneloas, the brother of the most powerful king on the Greek peninsula, Agamemnon, who was married to Clytemnestra, daughter of Sparta and sister of Helen. Meneloas became king of Lakonia, making the brothers an important force in southern Greece.

Paris went to Sparta to present the apple to Helen. There, Menelaos gave a feast in honor of Paris before departing to visit the king of Knossos. After he left, Paris and Helen decided to run away and sailed to Troy.

When Menelaos heard what happened, he begged his brother Agamemnon to help him take his revenge. The king sent envoys to Troy to demand Helen’s return, but their entreaties were ignored. In response, Menelaos assembled an army, including the great hero warriors Achilles, Odysseus and Ajax, to engage Troy in a war that would last ten years.

In the tenth year, the legendary wooden horse was built as a means to gain access to the city. Well-armed men, among them Odysseus and Menelaos hid in it, while much of Greek army made a great show of withdrawing from Troy’s shores. The Trojans thought the horse had been left behind and pulled it into the city as a spoil of what they considered their victory over their enemy.

That night, there were celebrations throughout the city fueled by the consumption of large quantities of wine on the part of many of the Trojan forces, lulling them into a stupor. After midnight, the Greek soldiers emerged from the horse, killed the already pacified guards at the gates and opened the city to their comrades, who had returned under cover of darkness.

The Greeks entered Troy and killed all of its male inhabitants. The Trojan king Priam was killed on the threshold of his palace, while Paris was killed by Philoktetes. But the remaining Trojans still refused to give Helen up. Menelaos decided to kill her. However, once again confronted by her remarkable beauty he found he could not go through with it. After plundering and burning the city, the Greeks left Troy.

Temple of Athena, Assos (Behramkale)

The acropolis of Assos (Behramkale) is 238 m above sea level. The Temple of Athena was constructed on this site in the 6th century B.C. This Doric temple is being restored to its former glory and role as guardian of the Biga Peninsula and Gulf of Edremit. Linger to see the moonlight scattered through the temple ruins, or rise early for the gently awakening dawn over the acropolis. From the top you can take in the magnificent vista of the Gulf of Edremit and appreciate why this heavenly location was chosen. On the terraces descending to the sea are agoras, gymnasium and theatre. From the northern comer of the acropolis, you can see a mosque, a bridge and a fortress, all built in the 14th century by the Ottoman Sultan Murat 1. Down below lies a tiny and idyllic ancient harbor. Assos has gained the reputation of being the center of a Turkish art community with its lively Bohemian atmosphere.

This may be the holiday you will remember for years to come. In the village of Gulpinar, 25 km west of Behramkale, is the ancient city of Chryse where the 2nd-century B.C. temple of Apollon Smintheus is located. Babakale, a scenic village of houses terraced on a cliff which drops to the sea is 15 km west of Gulpinar on an unmarked road that follows the jagged coastline.

The people of Edirne trace their origins back beyond the rule of the Macedonians. The Roman emperor Hadrian rebuilt the city and renamed it Hadrianople after himself. With the division of the Roman Empire, the Byzantines claimed Edirne In 1361, Sultan Murat I added it to his empire. The city's role for almost 100 years as capital of the Ottoman Empire accounts for its many historically and architecturally important buildings. With its mosques, religious complexes, bridges, bazaars, caravanserais and palaces, Edirne is a living museum.

Meric Bridge, Edirne

The Selimiye Mosque is the city's focal point occupying the top of a hill. Sinan's design reflects the classical Ottoman style. Built on the orders of Sultan Selim. 11, (1569-1575) it attests to the technological abilities of the day and the genius of the master Ottoman architect.

The Eski Mosque is the oldest Ottoman structure in Edirne built between 1403 and 1414 by Mehmet 1. The white marble of its portal contrasts with the building's cut stone and brick masonry. Calligraphic inscriptions of Koranic verses decorate the interior.

The Uc Serefeli Mosque, built between 1438 and 1447 by Murat 1, presages the great period of mosque architecture under Sinan and embodies a new freedom from restraint as well as advances in engineering. The northwest minaret has three galleries, giving the mosque its name. It was the highest minaret until those of the Selimiye Mosque in Istanbul eclipsed it.

Towards the end of the 15th century, Beyazit II commissioned the architect Hayrettin to build him a complex in Edirne to include a mosque, darussifa (hospital), medrese, kitchen and store rooms. The mosque is square and is covered with a high dome. Over 100 domes cover the remainder of the complex. The most important of the other buildings is the Darussifa which stood out in its time as a modem facility with a unique and humane architectural design.

Little has changed in the Kaleici section of Edirne since the Middle Ages. Narrow streets lined with houses wind through the area. The number of small restaurants and cafes reflect the district's renaissance.

Sinan built several of the famous baths in Edirne including the Sokollu, Tahtakale, Mezit Bey, Beylerbeyi and Gazi Mihal hamams. His work is also seen in the Ahmet Pasa Caravanserai and the Rustem Pasa Caravanserai of 1561. The latter has been renovated and serves as a charming hotel. The old bedesten of the early 15th century still functions as Edirne's main market. As you drive around the area you will notice many lovely Ottoman bridges gracing the Tunca and Meric Rivers.

Edirne has retained many of its colorful traditions and customs. Every summer, where the Tunca River divides, an emerald green meadow, called the Sarayici is the site of the Kirkpinar Greased Wrestling Contests. Shiny, slippery, bodies grapple with each other to determine who will emerge as champion.

Sunflowers

As you walk through the city and peer into the corners of the grocery stores, you see blocks of white feta cheese, a local speciality. Hardaliye, another of the city's delicacies, is a grape drink mixed with mustard and marzipan. Scented soaps, earthenware pots and straw baskets from Edirne make good souvenirs. You will also find it difficult to resist the beautiful embroidery work of the local women.

The Archeology and Ethnography Museum traces the history of the area from prehistoric to Byzantine times and exhibits clothing from the late Ottoman period. At the Turkish Islamic Art Museum examples of Ottoman architectural details, calligraphy, manuscripts, Korans, weapons, glass, along with an imperial tent used on military campaigns are on display.

On the way to the Saroz Gulf in the Aegean Sea, you can stop at Uzunkopru to see an interesting bridge built by Murat 11 in 1444 which, spans the Ergene River. Its 174 arches, the highest of which is 12.28 m make up its 1,354-meter length. The mild climate and beautiful surroundings of the Saroz Gulf invite holiday makers for a relaxing break. On the northern edge of the gulf are the lovely Ibrice and Erikli beaches where hotel and guest house facilities are plentiful and reasonably priced.

Enez (Ainos) was an important port in ancient times but today it lies 3.5 km. inland. Its origins can be traced to the 12th century B.C. and Enez became an important settlement during the Hellenic, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods. It was first built by the Kyme people and was known as a colony of the western Anatolian civilization. Currently, it remains an open-air museum. Enez Castle has been restored several times throughout history and is well worth a visit. There is also a church dating from the 6th century, some carved tombs and a beach with clear water. The people here are quite hospitable, making Enez an interesting stopover.

The Yildiz (Istranca) Mountains divide the province of Kirklareli. Lush mountainous landscapes dotted with quaint houses transport you to a tranquil frame of mind. The oldest mosque in the city of Kirklareli is the Hizirbey Mosque, built in 1383. The mosque complex includes a bazaar.

Nearby stands a hamam also built under the patronage of Hizir Bey. The l4th century Kirklar Memorial with its 18 impressive columns stands on Kirklar Hill honoring the site where 40 soldiers lost their lives. Every summer, where the Tunca River divides, an emerald green meadow, called the Sarayici is the site of the Kirkpinar Greased Wrestling Contests. Shiny, slippery, bodies grapple with each other to determine who will emerge as champion.

As you walk through the city and peer into the corners of the grocery stores, you see blocks of white feta cheese, a local speciality. Hardaliye, another of the city's delicacies, is a grape drink mixed with mustard and marzipan. Scented soaps, earthenware pots and straw baskets from Edirne make good souvenirs. You will also find it difficult to resist the beautiful embroidery work of the local women.

Kirkpinar Wrestlers

The Black Sea Coast of Kirklareli is another place to enjoy beaches and good fish restaurants. Igneada, 98 km east of Kirklareli, is squeezed between its sandy shores and the Yildiz Mountains. Kiyikoy (Midye) is resort town with good accommodations and picturesque dwellings from the Middle Ages. The town and its walls date from the Byzantine period. There is also a monastery to St. Nicholas.

The Sokollu Mosque in Luleburgaz, on the Edirne-Istanbul road, is an exquisite work of Sinan that dates from 1570. The neighboring town of Babaeski also boasts a Sinan building in the Cedi Ali Pasa Mosque.

Vize (Byzia), an important Byzantine center, houses the Kucuk Ayasofya church along with a castle, both dating from the Byzantine period.

If you are travelling north to Bulgaria, linger for a few hours at the peaceful and green town of Derekoy, the last stop before the border.